Our everyday lives seem to become more busy by the minute, often times this results in our four-legged friends entertaining themselves quite frequently unattended. Its our job as dog trainers to make pet owners understand that dogs are not tearing up our furniture, chewing our gutters off the house, fence fighting with the neighbors dog, lunging and nipping at the end of the leash, or simply flipping over our trashcans out of spite, aggression, or because they miss you. The common answer to that question is sheer boredom!

Dog training obedience is the first step toward gaining structure and control back into your home and lifestyle. However not every dog is satisfied with 30 minutes of training a few times a week or most often I hear the old standby ” having the dog sit or down while I have my snack on the couch and throw them a piece or two! ” Some dogs need a little more interaction and so just need a job to do. The trainers at Highland Canine Training can offer you tips and suggestions for your lifestyle so that you can get more from your dog and your obedience training.

One alternative method of releasing in energy is what we call “Tracking for Fun” with your dog. Now, not every dog or pet owner is cut out for this exercise, we would have to test your dog out during our free evaluation to make sure that both you and the dog are up to speed! Tracking is a great we to get the whole family involved and make your puppy tired. We often times get the older kids in the family to run a short track in the wooded area or the park (some even take walkie talkie’s to make it even more fun) and then the rest of the family can run behind the dog while they are tracking. It’s great exercise for everyone!

Another alternative method is agility courses. This too will require a free evaluation from our trainers to make sure you and your dog are enjoying what you do. Some of our clients go to group classes or have private lessons for agility training or you can make your own agility equipment at home. This again is a fun hobby for the entire family. Some of our more creative clients come up with neat agility courses that they have made out of things lying around the yard or garage.

We often times see pet owners who have bought or ended up with extremely drivey working dog lines in their home, which can be a recipe for disaster if you’re not careful! Protection training is often a good outlet for those high energy dogs. Many people are under the asumption that dogs that do bitework are mean and cannot be socialized or controlled. That is not the case, if your dog has ambition you could simply conduct bitework sessions as a game or sport with very little civil agitation. Dogs can understand when the bite sleeve or suit is out…we get to play. This is a great work out for the dog as well as the handler and lets not forget the decoy. If you do not have access to the equipment we would be happy to provide you with private lessons for protection work.

Herding is another great way to provide your dog with both physical exercise as well as mental stimulation. Herding training is obviously not for every dog and owner, but is often a great way to burn off energy for pastoral breeds. Contrary to popular belief, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds and German Shepherds do not automatically know how to instinctively herd. These and many other dogs will have some natural herding instincts, but do not know how to herd. This activity is something that must be taught and can be learned by dogs both young and old. If you are interested in herding training feel free to call or email us to set up a free herding evaluation.

Tugging can also be a great game to play with your dog to exert mental and physical stimulation. This activity does not illicit aggressive behavior! A dog that is well-rounded and balanced will often find this game both challlenging and fun. The important thing to understand with playing tug is that you always control the game.

Utilizing a backpack during a walk or run can also be a great way of burning some excess energy. Physical exercise is not always enough and we would encourage mental stimulation along with any physical activity. Adding a backpack to your routine can sometimes be enough to tire out your dog.

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Tayo, a Boston Terrier, came to us a few months back with some aggression issues that his owner needed resolved. He had bitten several people and had even sent two to the hospital for their injuries. Tayo was prone to snap at joggers, neighbors….well just about anyone that he encountered. This feisty black and white dog had become quite accustomed to biting, snapping and growling at pretty much anyone he encountered. This problem had become so serious that his owners knew that if he had another incident that he would surely be ordered euthanized by the authorities. They had been warned of his behavior before and knew that if there wasn’t some serious intervention, Tayo was soon to be in big trouble.

His owners brought him in wearing a small leather muzzle and described him as having “social anxiety”. Tayo would jump on people, fight with other dogs, bark, bite, and even run away if given the opportunity. He even barked and growled at unfamiliar objects as if he wanted to kill them.

We worked with Tayo for several days and observed his behaviors. I noticed that all that was required for him to bark and growl at someone was that they be standing, sitting or breathing. He was actually pretty indiscriminate about his displays of aggression. After some testing and observation we determined that he wasn’t very dominant, fear aggressive and did not suffer from dog aggression. His behaviors really didn’t fit well into any common dog behavior category. After a couple of days we were able to determine that he was reactive and very easily stimulated. This often caused him frustration, therefore, he would simply sink his teeth into whatever and too often, whomever was nearby.

So, we began to give Tayo plenty of exercise, mental stimulation, direction and an outlet for his frustrations and soon we saw that his behavior was improving drastically. So we continued to work perfecting his obedience commands and teaching him a little “self control”.

Tayo was particularly fond of trying to bite joggers and others who passed by him too quickly or closely. So after working with him for some time, I felt as though he was ready to be challenged with some “joggers”. We had several new people run, jog and pass by Tayo swiftly, all the while I was keeping his attention and focus on me. To my pleasant surprise, Tayo was able to keep his attention on me and not fixate on the people jogging by.

Tayo was not an aggressive dog at all. He was simply understimulated and needed more direction in his life. His owners had worked hard to try to rehabilitate him themselves, but they simply didn’t have the tools or the understanding of what Tayo needed.

Tayo’s owner recently sent us an update which said:

“I am so pleased with what your training has done for my dog. You really gave him a second chance at hopefully living a long life. He listens to us now and seems to actually be more content.”

-Kristen K., Baltimore, MD

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Highland Canine Training will be offering group classes this Winter in Matthews, Mooresville, Statesville and Harmony, NC. We have some exciting new classes for owners who want to keep their dogs busy this winter and to avoid “cabin fever”. Check out our class dates and times below:

Group Classes in Matthews, NC
Therapy Dog Class Tuesday, January 26, 2010 at 6:30 p.m.
Basic Obedience Class Wednesday, January 27, 2010 at 6:30 p.m.
Agility for Fun Friday, January 29, 2010 at 6:30 p.m.
Rally Obedience Sunday, January 31, 2010 at 11:00 a.m.
For information on Group Classes in Matthews, email ltaylor@highlandcanine.com

Group Classes in Mooresville, NC
Agility Class Saturday, January 30, 2010 at 11:30 a.m.
Rally -Obedience Class Saturday, January 30, 2010 at 1:00 p.m.
Basic Obedience Class Saturday, January 30, 2010 at 2:00 p.m.
Therapy Dog Class Saturday, January 30, 2010 at 3:15 p.m.
For information on Group Classes in Mooresville, email ltaylor@highlandcanine.com

Group Classes in Statesville, NC
S.T.A.R Puppy Class Tuesday, January 26, 2010 at 6:00 p.m.
Basic Obedience Class Tuesday, January 26, 2010 at 7:00 p.m.

Advanced Obedience Class Thursday, January 28, 2010 at 6:00 p.m.
Basic Obedience Class Thursday, January 28, 2010 at 7:00 p.m.
For information on Group Classes in Statesville, email rellis@highlandcanine.com

Group Classes in Harmony, NC
Tracking for Fun Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 9:00 a.m.
Introduction to Herding Saturday, January 16, 2010 at 10:00 a.m.
For information on Group Classes in Harmony, email training@highlandcanine.com

Free herding evaluations will be conducted for those interested in the herding class on Saturday, January 9, 2010 at 9 a.m. at our facility in Harmony, NC.

If you have any questions about our group classes or need more information, please feel free to email us or call at 704.728.9494

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Unfortunately, dogs don’t come with an owners manual.

Often times, dog owners deal with frustrating issues and behavioral problems because they don’t have the understanding or resources to fix them. These behaviors can be as simple as jumping on people, barging out the door, pulling on the leash or chasing a cat. At times these behaviors are more serious and include; biting, fighting, nipping, guarding, fear of people, fear of dogs, dominance and territorial aggression.

Most owners will employ the help of a dog trainer to assist in rehabilitating these more serious behavior problems. At times, this behavior modification is unsuccessful and can even makes the problems worse. Lately, we have rehabilitated a number of dogs that have been seen by other trainers. We have realized that their behaviors have escalated because there was a misdiagnosis of their problem by the other trainer. Therefore, the trainer and owner have been utilizing methods of rehabilitation and treatment that conflict with the behavior problem that the dog actually has.

Proper behavior analysis is critical in order to successfully rehabilitate a problem dog. In order to decide on a plan of rehabilitation, we must first take the time to understand the root cause of the problem or problems. In order to understand the problem completely, the trainer should take the time to interview the owner(s) of the dog, ask questions about the dogs behavior and any previous incidents with the dog and then observe the dog under the same circumstances where it has displayed the problem behaviors in the past. This should only be the beginning of the evaluation. The trainer will often have to test theories about the trigger(s) for the behavior in order to accurately determine the root cause of the problem behavior.

If we are working with a dog that we have determined is fear aggressive (biting because they are fearful of something or someone), it is not acceptable to simply say the the dog is fearful and they will bite when put into a situation where they are scared. We must first dissect the problem so that we can treat it properly. For example, we may find that this particular dog is fearful and this causes them to bite. By dissecting the problem, we may find that the dog is only fearful in situations with other dogs. If we further evaluate the problem, we may learn that the dog is only fearful of large dogs that are brown. By taking the evaluation further we may often find that the dog is only fearful with males of this type.

So, our original assessment was that the dog was fearful and that the dog would display aggression when placed in fearful situations. But by taking the assessment further, we have found that the dog is fear aggressive when placed in situations with large, brown, male dogs. Our course of rehabilitation would require inclusion of training and exposure with large, brown, male dogs in order to be successful.

This example is only one of many combinations that is possible in a behavioral analysis examination. These problems can be less or more specific than the example that I listed above. What is important to understand is that we cannot successfully rehabilitate a problem or undesired behavior unless we fully understand what the problem truly is.

Once we have determined the cause of the behavior, only then can we efficiently begin to treat it. Fortunately, the majority of behavioral problems are treatable with a consistent training and rehabilitation program.

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I recently saw an article which raised questions about scent line-ups conducted by police dogs. This article was brought to my attention by a friend who had some questions about the article and video that they saw, based on the fact that they encounter these line-ups in their work. Below is the video of the actual lineup that was conducted and later proven to be faulty. Later, in this article, I want to discuss how, in my opinion these line-ups can be improved to better serve law enforcement.

Many departments in the US are now utilizing scent line-ups as an investigative tool while many agencies in Europe have been using line-ups as evidence for years. In order for this method of investigation to be successful, there is definitely a foundation of training (both dogs and humans) that must take place. Dog teams should be able to clearly demonstrate a track record of accurate and effective recognition of target odor during scent line-ups in training before ever attempting to utilize this investigative tool during an actual case. I believe that this demonstration of accuracy should be recorded and properly documented over a number of months before the handler should ask the dog to perform in a real life environment.

Procedures should be established for scent line-ups in order to reduce the risk of contamination by the handler and others assisting in the investigation. In the video, you can clearly see the investigator handling the samples that are being used in the line-up. Handling these odor samples in this manner will undoubtedly contaminate them. Each dog handler that conducts scent line ups should have a documented method of performing them and should be able to demonstrate and articulate the procedures that are put in place to minimize contamination as much as possible. These line-ups should be set up similar to a scientific procedure rather than typical drug or explosives detection training.

Bloodhound

Another aspect of training and performing scent line-ups that should be considered is what should be expected of the dog in the event that they encounter the target odor. In a nutshell, the dog should demonstrate a clear and discernable alert. This indication should not be something that takes the handler fifteen or twenty minutes to explain to the layperson in order for them to understand. This indication should be clearly recognized and understood by anyone watching the line-up being performed (either live or on video).

You should also take into consideration that the target odor should not always be included in the samples presented to the dog while training and establishing procedures for line-ups. The dog should be allowed an “out” in the event that they sniff all of the samples and they determine that there is no match with the target or suspect odor. The dog should be rewarded and encouraged to be accurate, not to always find a match. This is important because there will not always be a match to your suspect sample given a particular line-up. This scenario should also be included in your training program so that the dog understands what is expected of him in the event that there is no “match”. You should also consider having some type of “negative indication” where the dog clearly demonstrates that there is no match to the sample that has been presented to him.

Consistent training and effective reinforcement is key in any type of dog training program in order for them to be productive and maintain accuracy. I believe that this is imperative when performing scent line-ups as evidence or as an investigative tool. By establishing and effective training program, doing your homework and putting some controls and procedures in place to limit contamination and the risk of a false indication, K-9 teams can be efficient and productive in performing scent line-ups to identify suspects in criminal cases.

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If you have never seen a dog fight, consider yourself lucky. It is amazing how two otherwise gentle, family pets can explode into raging fury in the blink of an eye. In many cases, there are warning signs, and it is better to be attuned to these cues and prevent escalation of aggression than it is to have to break up a fight. If you walk your dog along a regular route, become familiar with other neighborhood dogs, and if you see any aggressive behavior from either your dog or another dog, it is best to avoid the situation altogether. While you can to a large extent control your dog’s behavior, you can’t predict how another dog will react, so it might be prudent to cross the road, or choose a new route altogether.

However, sometimes a situation unfolds right in front of your eyes before you have a chance to redirect it, and the next thing you know you have a ringside seat to a dog fight. A dog’s teeth are to be respected. They can shred skin and muscle in mere seconds. And if your dog is one of the dogs in the fight, your first instinct is to jump in and save him.

This is a great way to get yourself hurt as well. You are no match for two angry dogs and their teeth. If you pull your dog back while the other dog is still attacking, you are putting your dog at a huge disadvantage. So, it is a good idea to understand what to do in this situation before it ever happens, and with a little luck you will never need to use it.

3 Things to NEVER Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight
Here are three things that you should NEVER do to break up a dog fight.

Scream – Loud chaotic noise just elevates the energy in an already out of control situation.

Use Your Hands – Trying to stop two fighting dogs by putting yourself, or any part of you, in between them does not stop the fight. It just gets you hurt.

Only Call Off One Dog – There are two dogs fighting. Never pull your dog out of a fight if someone is not pulling the other dog out at the same time. You are just making your dog defenseless, and the other dog can have a free shot at him.

3 Things to ALWAYS Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight

Now here three things that may HELP break up a dog fight.

Training – If your dog obeys your come, sit, stay command, you may be able to avoid the confrontation altogether. Also, if you can tell your dog to sit and stay during a fight, it means you only have to manage the aggressive behavior of one dog rather than two.

Startle – A loud, piercing noise, a blast of compressed air or a good dousing with water may redirect the dogs’ attention just long enough to pull them apart.

Separate – To separate fighting dogs one person needs to take each dog by the back legs and drag them backwards in a circle. Walking in a circle will put them off balance and they’ll have to think about staying on their feet, rather than their argument. Keep dragging and turning until the dog has calmed down, or you risk him turning and biting you. Get the two dogs far away from each other before releasing your hold and checking for damage.

When checking over your dog for bite wounds, they may not appear large on the outside, but what looks innocent on the outside can mask extensive internal muscle damage. Generally if your dog has any wounds a trip to the vet is prudent, and at the very least you will probably want to administer antibiotics to avoid the onset of infection. He may feel a lot better if he has some pain relief at the same time.

If you are feeling anxious about going for walks after the attack, take a big breath and relax, because your dog will sense that, and feel nervous himself. If your dog is fearful after the attack, use positive reinforcement to redirect his attention and encourage him to come out with you, and again interact with other dogs. Soon enough, the dog fight will be a dim memory, and going for a walk will once again be a treat for both of you.

www.dogfencediy.com

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Recently, we provided a narcotics detection dog to the Policia Seguridad Vial in the Province of Buenos Aires, Argentina. I had the opportunity to travel to Argentina to instruct the handler training for Chief Guillermos Rios, the new handler for the dog. The trip was made possible by the 911Fund out of New York, NY.

The dog, a Labrador Retriever, named Jett has been working in Buenos Aires for about three weeks now. He is the first drug detection dog in Buenos Aires and the only one used by the Federal police in Argentina. Jett will work in the Zarate region of Buenos Aires to assist in the drug interdiction efforts in the northern area of Buenos Aires. This area, which borders Brasil and the Missiones area of Argentina contains prime routes for drug traffickers.

Drug Dog in Buenos Aires Argentina

The trip was a great experience and I had the opportunity to meet alot of great people during my stay in Argentina. Chief Rios and Jett bonded quickly and made a great team. During our handler school and training we had an opportunity to work the dog doing bus and truck interdiction in the field. The dog and handler performed well and this team will undoubtedly be an asset to the drug interdiction efforts in Argentina. Good luck to Chief Rios and K-9 Jett!

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We have trained a lot of Dobermans in our in-kennel program and private lessons. There are a few things you should know and consider before making this your family pet.

If you have never owned a dog before, this is not the best breed to have as your first dog. This dog needs an experienced dog owner that has had experience with large powerful breeds that can give clear and consistent rules.

Dobermans are often highly energetic dogs, so when selecting this breed you need to have ample time in your daily schedule to give it adequate exercise. They need an opportunity to run off–leash and exercise to naturally get out burst speed. From our experience Dobermans that are understimulated with both physical and mental exercise tend to create undesirable behaviors like excessive barking, chewing and destructive behavior and anxious whining.

It is also important to purchase a Doberman Pinscher from a reputable breeder. Dobermans have been over bred in the USA resulting in poorly bred Dobermans with increased anxiety, aggression and health issues. Some of the best Dobermans that we have had the opportunity to work with and train have been imported dogs form Europe or dogs form working import lines. These dogs seem to have a better overall temperament, are healthier and more intelligent. If you are considering getting a Doberman for personal protection or competition work, we strongly recommend selecting a dog form import or working lines.

So if you decide a Doberman pinscher is the dog for you, we encourage you to socialize this dog as much as possible and to start training the pup when they are young. Well-socialized Dobermans get along with children and other animals well. We can’t express enough the importance of proper socialization with puppies and adult dogs. Under-socialized Dobermans can be fearful of people and show aggression towards other animals.

Hitting or getting physical with this dog or any dog is unacceptable and will create more problems for you. Always seek professional dog training to learn how to properly and effectively handle your Doberman Pinscher.

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Bringing your new puppy home is an important part of the life you will live together. This may be the first time the puppy has been away from his/her mother and siblings. An older dog, after spending time in a kennel may be intimidated moving into a new home. Before you bring your puppy home you need to prepare your home, your family and yourself for your new life. Before bringing your new pet home it is best to pet proof your home.

Outside
Inspect plants growing in your yard. Make sure none of them are toxic. If you are not sure take a sample to a nursery and have it analyzed. If it is toxic remove it or plant it in an area your dog will not have access to. You may even fence in a certain area containing your plants to protect them and to protect your pet. If you have a garden, fence it in. Puppies will dig up the soft earth and uproot your vegetable plants.Tomato vines are toxic and puppies might chew on them. Remove pest poisons and don’t fertilize or use weed killer prior to bringing your pet home. If you have a fenced in yard, make sure the puppy can not squeeze through slats. Make sure your puppy can not dig his way under your fence. Remove items from the yard that might pose a danger to your puppy.

Garage
Put chemicals and other harmful things on shelves or cabinets
Clean floor of car spills….especially antifreeze.

Inside your Home
Remove everything from the floor.
Place shoes in the closet
Put pillows, games and toys out of reach
IF HE CHEWS ON IT……..IT’S YOUR FAULT
Your puppy (until he/she is trained) should not have access to any of your belongings and never be allowed to have free run of your house.

Bedroom
Keep books, clothes and shoes off the floor.
Close closet doors firmly
Keep your bedroom door closed so the puppy does not wander in
Remove medications, vitamins, etc. from nightstand….Put them in a safe place
If you have children clear the floor of toys…..Teach your children and your puppy that the puppy should not play with the children’s toys. The puppy can play with his own toys. This is an important lesson and needs to be reinforced.

Bathroom
Keep medications in medicine cabinets
Keep shampoos, soaps and all toiletries out of the puppy’s reach
Put glass or plastic containers in a safe place….do not leave products on the bathtub rim
Make sure your wastepaper basket out of reach, or make sure it has a lid that the puppy can not get into.

Kitchen
Keep cleaning products in a safe place. Make sure cabinets are secured
Keep trash can out of reach…or make sure it can not be opened by the pup…..garbage can be toxic to a pet. Chicken bones, plastic bags and a host of other goodies can be fatal to your puppy.

Living Room
Put decorative pillows, candles, magazines etc., out of reach
Make sure stereo wires, computer cords are out of reach
Keep plants in a safe place-puppies will chew on them
If possible do puppy proofing and shopping for your pet a week in advance. You don’t want to have to rush out for products.
Schedule a vet visit a couple of days after your puppy comes home. This way he can settle in before being exposed to new things.

If possible take a few days off work. You will need to establish proper behaviors and house training. If you are getting your pet from a shelter and can not take time off try to visit the shelter on a Friday so you will have the weekend to spend with your dog. Puppies and adopted dogs are not instantly programmable. They require planning, time and patience.

Here is a shopping list for your new pet:
Urine Cleaner or water and vinegar mixture
Disinfectant
Appropriately sized bed
Appropriately sized crate
Food and water bowls
Food
Collar and leash
Grooming supplies
Child’s gate

Have a talk with Family Discuss the following:
Training
Chores and Responsibilities
Set up house rules (is dog allowed on furniture, where will he sleep, where will food and water bowls be kept)
If you have children teach the children how to behave around the puppy.

The first few nights expect your puppy to cry. They miss the comfort of their mother and siblings. Resist the temptation to “rescue” the puppy. Leave him alone. He will adjust. It is OK to let the pup sleep (in a crate) in your bedroom so you can monitor when he/she has to go out. If he has to relieve himself take him out (without a lot of fuss and talk). Allow him to go, put him right back into the crate.

Bringing the Pup Home To Existing Pets

Most dogs can learn to accept and enjoy other dogs. Some dogs get along better with the opposite sex, some get along with both sexes and some get along with same sex. Adult dogs generally tolerate puppies more than they tolerate adult dogs. Puppies normally do not pose a threat or challenge an older dogs authority allowing the older dog to set boundaries. Sometimes puppies ignore the older dogs wishes and must be reprimanded by the older dog. For this reason they should be supervised until they work out a peaceful resolution. If the older dog chases dogs away or isn’t used to other dogs you should introduce the older dog to your new puppy in a neutral location (a park). You will need someone to handle your older do while you handle the puppy. Allow the animals to see each other from a distance and gradually decrease the distance. Allow them to sniff and investigate. After this is over walk the dogs in a relaxed way, but keep a safe distance between them. If you don’t have help you can introduce the pets by putting the new pet behind a fence and allow them to investigate each other (sniff). If they seem friendly allow them to meet.
Do not neglect the older dog
Do not be overly affectionate to the new dog
Accept that the older dog will discipline the puppy (this is normal as long as the older dog does not show signs of aggression)

Do your research before you obtain a puppy or an adult dog. Know the breed temperament, activity level, trainability, and know what the dog is bred to do. Know what you are looking for. Buy a dog that will fit your lifestyle……Don’t buy a mastiff if you are looking for an avid running partner.

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Recently, K-9 Robinho (a black labrador retriever trained by Highland Canine Training, LLC) and his handler Eric Koenig of the Kingsland Police Department in Georgia nabbed another local drug dealer. The case began with a traffic stop for failure to give a signal. The driver was excessively nervous and upon request would not give consent to a search of their vehicle. Robinho was deployed and sniffed the vehicle intently. He alerted by sticking his head up and into the driver side wheel well compartment near the tire and then he came to a sit. The behavior from the trusty labrador was definitely BAD NEWS for the driver of the car.

68 pounds of marijuana located by K-9 Robinho of Kingsland, GA Police

This canine alert led to the immediate opening of the trunk where 68 pounds of marijuana was found bundled with numerous layers of plastic and fabric softener sheets. None of the officers could smell any odor from the marijuana even with their faces literally stuffed inside the trunk. This just to demonstrate how well the driver had concealed the odor of the drugs and how acute Robinho’s nose is at finding odor.

Congratulations to Eric and Robinho for a job well done. Keep up the good work!

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