I recently saw an article which raised questions about scent line-ups conducted by police dogs. This article was brought to my attention by a friend who had some questions about the article and video that they saw, based on the fact that they encounter these line-ups in their work. Below is the video of the actual lineup that was conducted and later proven to be faulty. Later, in this article, I want to discuss how, in my opinion these line-ups can be improved to better serve law enforcement.

Many departments in the US are now utilizing scent line-ups as an investigative tool while many agencies in Europe have been using line-ups as evidence for years. In order for this method of investigation to be successful, there is definitely a foundation of training (both dogs and humans) that must take place. Dog teams should be able to clearly demonstrate a track record of accurate and effective recognition of target odor during scent line-ups in training before ever attempting to utilize this investigative tool during an actual case. I believe that this demonstration of accuracy should be recorded and properly documented over a number of months before the handler should ask the dog to perform in a real life environment.

Procedures should be established for scent line-ups in order to reduce the risk of contamination by the handler and others assisting in the investigation. In the video, you can clearly see the investigator handling the samples that are being used in the line-up. Handling these odor samples in this manner will undoubtedly contaminate them. Each dog handler that conducts scent line ups should have a documented method of performing them and should be able to demonstrate and articulate the procedures that are put in place to minimize contamination as much as possible. These line-ups should be set up similar to a scientific procedure rather than typical drug or explosives detection training.

Bloodhound

Another aspect of training and performing scent line-ups that should be considered is what should be expected of the dog in the event that they encounter the target odor. In a nutshell, the dog should demonstrate a clear and discernable alert. This indication should not be something that takes the handler fifteen or twenty minutes to explain to the layperson in order for them to understand. This indication should be clearly recognized and understood by anyone watching the line-up being performed (either live or on video).

You should also take into consideration that the target odor should not always be included in the samples presented to the dog while training and establishing procedures for line-ups. The dog should be allowed an “out” in the event that they sniff all of the samples and they determine that there is no match with the target or suspect odor. The dog should be rewarded and encouraged to be accurate, not to always find a match. This is important because there will not always be a match to your suspect sample given a particular line-up. This scenario should also be included in your training program so that the dog understands what is expected of him in the event that there is no “match”. You should also consider having some type of “negative indication” where the dog clearly demonstrates that there is no match to the sample that has been presented to him.

Consistent training and effective reinforcement is key in any type of dog training program in order for them to be productive and maintain accuracy. I believe that this is imperative when performing scent line-ups as evidence or as an investigative tool. By establishing and effective training program, doing your homework and putting some controls and procedures in place to limit contamination and the risk of a false indication, K-9 teams can be efficient and productive in performing scent line-ups to identify suspects in criminal cases.

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If you have never seen a dog fight, consider yourself lucky. It is amazing how two otherwise gentle, family pets can explode into raging fury in the blink of an eye. In many cases, there are warning signs, and it is better to be attuned to these cues and prevent escalation of aggression than it is to have to break up a fight. If you walk your dog along a regular route, become familiar with other neighborhood dogs, and if you see any aggressive behavior from either your dog or another dog, it is best to avoid the situation altogether. While you can to a large extent control your dog’s behavior, you can’t predict how another dog will react, so it might be prudent to cross the road, or choose a new route altogether.

However, sometimes a situation unfolds right in front of your eyes before you have a chance to redirect it, and the next thing you know you have a ringside seat to a dog fight. A dog’s teeth are to be respected. They can shred skin and muscle in mere seconds. And if your dog is one of the dogs in the fight, your first instinct is to jump in and save him.

This is a great way to get yourself hurt as well. You are no match for two angry dogs and their teeth. If you pull your dog back while the other dog is still attacking, you are putting your dog at a huge disadvantage. So, it is a good idea to understand what to do in this situation before it ever happens, and with a little luck you will never need to use it.

3 Things to NEVER Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight
Here are three things that you should NEVER do to break up a dog fight.

Scream – Loud chaotic noise just elevates the energy in an already out of control situation.

Use Your Hands – Trying to stop two fighting dogs by putting yourself, or any part of you, in between them does not stop the fight. It just gets you hurt.

Only Call Off One Dog – There are two dogs fighting. Never pull your dog out of a fight if someone is not pulling the other dog out at the same time. You are just making your dog defenseless, and the other dog can have a free shot at him.

3 Things to ALWAYS Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight

Now here three things that may HELP break up a dog fight.

Training – If your dog obeys your come, sit, stay command, you may be able to avoid the confrontation altogether. Also, if you can tell your dog to sit and stay during a fight, it means you only have to manage the aggressive behavior of one dog rather than two.

Startle – A loud, piercing noise, a blast of compressed air or a good dousing with water may redirect the dogs’ attention just long enough to pull them apart.

Separate – To separate fighting dogs one person needs to take each dog by the back legs and drag them backwards in a circle. Walking in a circle will put them off balance and they’ll have to think about staying on their feet, rather than their argument. Keep dragging and turning until the dog has calmed down, or you risk him turning and biting you. Get the two dogs far away from each other before releasing your hold and checking for damage.

When checking over your dog for bite wounds, they may not appear large on the outside, but what looks innocent on the outside can mask extensive internal muscle damage. Generally if your dog has any wounds a trip to the vet is prudent, and at the very least you will probably want to administer antibiotics to avoid the onset of infection. He may feel a lot better if he has some pain relief at the same time.

If you are feeling anxious about going for walks after the attack, take a big breath and relax, because your dog will sense that, and feel nervous himself. If your dog is fearful after the attack, use positive reinforcement to redirect his attention and encourage him to come out with you, and again interact with other dogs. Soon enough, the dog fight will be a dim memory, and going for a walk will once again be a treat for both of you.

www.dogfencediy.com

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Recently, we provided a narcotics detection dog to the Policia Seguridad Vial in the Province of Buenos Aires, Argentina. I had the opportunity to travel to Argentina to instruct the handler training for Chief Guillermos Rios, the new handler for the dog. The trip was made possible by the 911Fund out of New York, NY.

The dog, a Labrador Retriever, named Jett has been working in Buenos Aires for about three weeks now. He is the first drug detection dog in Buenos Aires and the only one used by the Federal police in Argentina. Jett will work in the Zarate region of Buenos Aires to assist in the drug interdiction efforts in the northern area of Buenos Aires. This area, which borders Brasil and the Missiones area of Argentina contains prime routes for drug traffickers.

Drug Dog in Buenos Aires Argentina

The trip was a great experience and I had the opportunity to meet alot of great people during my stay in Argentina. Chief Rios and Jett bonded quickly and made a great team. During our handler school and training we had an opportunity to work the dog doing bus and truck interdiction in the field. The dog and handler performed well and this team will undoubtedly be an asset to the drug interdiction efforts in Argentina. Good luck to Chief Rios and K-9 Jett!

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We have trained a lot of Dobermans in our in-kennel program and private lessons. There are a few things you should know and consider before making this your family pet.

If you have never owned a dog before, this is not the best breed to have as your first dog. This dog needs an experienced dog owner that has had experience with large powerful breeds that can give clear and consistent rules.

Dobermans are often highly energetic dogs, so when selecting this breed you need to have ample time in your daily schedule to give it adequate exercise. They need an opportunity to run off–leash and exercise to naturally get out burst speed. From our experience Dobermans that are understimulated with both physical and mental exercise tend to create undesirable behaviors like excessive barking, chewing and destructive behavior and anxious whining.

It is also important to purchase a Doberman Pinscher from a reputable breeder. Dobermans have been over bred in the USA resulting in poorly bred Dobermans with increased anxiety, aggression and health issues. Some of the best Dobermans that we have had the opportunity to work with and train have been imported dogs form Europe or dogs form working import lines. These dogs seem to have a better overall temperament, are healthier and more intelligent. If you are considering getting a Doberman for personal protection or competition work, we strongly recommend selecting a dog form import or working lines.

So if you decide a Doberman pinscher is the dog for you, we encourage you to socialize this dog as much as possible and to start training the pup when they are young. Well-socialized Dobermans get along with children and other animals well. We can’t express enough the importance of proper socialization with puppies and adult dogs. Under-socialized Dobermans can be fearful of people and show aggression towards other animals.

Hitting or getting physical with this dog or any dog is unacceptable and will create more problems for you. Always seek professional dog training to learn how to properly and effectively handle your Doberman Pinscher.

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Bringing your new puppy home is an important part of the life you will live together. This may be the first time the puppy has been away from his/her mother and siblings. An older dog, after spending time in a kennel may be intimidated moving into a new home. Before you bring your puppy home you need to prepare your home, your family and yourself for your new life. Before bringing your new pet home it is best to pet proof your home.

Outside
Inspect plants growing in your yard. Make sure none of them are toxic. If you are not sure take a sample to a nursery and have it analyzed. If it is toxic remove it or plant it in an area your dog will not have access to. You may even fence in a certain area containing your plants to protect them and to protect your pet. If you have a garden, fence it in. Puppies will dig up the soft earth and uproot your vegetable plants.Tomato vines are toxic and puppies might chew on them. Remove pest poisons and don’t fertilize or use weed killer prior to bringing your pet home. If you have a fenced in yard, make sure the puppy can not squeeze through slats. Make sure your puppy can not dig his way under your fence. Remove items from the yard that might pose a danger to your puppy.

Garage
Put chemicals and other harmful things on shelves or cabinets
Clean floor of car spills….especially antifreeze.

Inside your Home
Remove everything from the floor.
Place shoes in the closet
Put pillows, games and toys out of reach
IF HE CHEWS ON IT……..IT’S YOUR FAULT
Your puppy (until he/she is trained) should not have access to any of your belongings and never be allowed to have free run of your house.

Bedroom
Keep books, clothes and shoes off the floor.
Close closet doors firmly
Keep your bedroom door closed so the puppy does not wander in
Remove medications, vitamins, etc. from nightstand….Put them in a safe place
If you have children clear the floor of toys…..Teach your children and your puppy that the puppy should not play with the children’s toys. The puppy can play with his own toys. This is an important lesson and needs to be reinforced.

Bathroom
Keep medications in medicine cabinets
Keep shampoos, soaps and all toiletries out of the puppy’s reach
Put glass or plastic containers in a safe place….do not leave products on the bathtub rim
Make sure your wastepaper basket out of reach, or make sure it has a lid that the puppy can not get into.

Kitchen
Keep cleaning products in a safe place. Make sure cabinets are secured
Keep trash can out of reach…or make sure it can not be opened by the pup…..garbage can be toxic to a pet. Chicken bones, plastic bags and a host of other goodies can be fatal to your puppy.

Living Room
Put decorative pillows, candles, magazines etc., out of reach
Make sure stereo wires, computer cords are out of reach
Keep plants in a safe place-puppies will chew on them
If possible do puppy proofing and shopping for your pet a week in advance. You don’t want to have to rush out for products.
Schedule a vet visit a couple of days after your puppy comes home. This way he can settle in before being exposed to new things.

If possible take a few days off work. You will need to establish proper behaviors and house training. If you are getting your pet from a shelter and can not take time off try to visit the shelter on a Friday so you will have the weekend to spend with your dog. Puppies and adopted dogs are not instantly programmable. They require planning, time and patience.

Here is a shopping list for your new pet:
Urine Cleaner or water and vinegar mixture
Disinfectant
Appropriately sized bed
Appropriately sized crate
Food and water bowls
Food
Collar and leash
Grooming supplies
Child’s gate

Have a talk with Family Discuss the following:
Training
Chores and Responsibilities
Set up house rules (is dog allowed on furniture, where will he sleep, where will food and water bowls be kept)
If you have children teach the children how to behave around the puppy.

The first few nights expect your puppy to cry. They miss the comfort of their mother and siblings. Resist the temptation to “rescue” the puppy. Leave him alone. He will adjust. It is OK to let the pup sleep (in a crate) in your bedroom so you can monitor when he/she has to go out. If he has to relieve himself take him out (without a lot of fuss and talk). Allow him to go, put him right back into the crate.

Bringing the Pup Home To Existing Pets

Most dogs can learn to accept and enjoy other dogs. Some dogs get along better with the opposite sex, some get along with both sexes and some get along with same sex. Adult dogs generally tolerate puppies more than they tolerate adult dogs. Puppies normally do not pose a threat or challenge an older dogs authority allowing the older dog to set boundaries. Sometimes puppies ignore the older dogs wishes and must be reprimanded by the older dog. For this reason they should be supervised until they work out a peaceful resolution. If the older dog chases dogs away or isn’t used to other dogs you should introduce the older dog to your new puppy in a neutral location (a park). You will need someone to handle your older do while you handle the puppy. Allow the animals to see each other from a distance and gradually decrease the distance. Allow them to sniff and investigate. After this is over walk the dogs in a relaxed way, but keep a safe distance between them. If you don’t have help you can introduce the pets by putting the new pet behind a fence and allow them to investigate each other (sniff). If they seem friendly allow them to meet.
Do not neglect the older dog
Do not be overly affectionate to the new dog
Accept that the older dog will discipline the puppy (this is normal as long as the older dog does not show signs of aggression)

Do your research before you obtain a puppy or an adult dog. Know the breed temperament, activity level, trainability, and know what the dog is bred to do. Know what you are looking for. Buy a dog that will fit your lifestyle……Don’t buy a mastiff if you are looking for an avid running partner.

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Recently, K-9 Robinho (a black labrador retriever trained by Highland Canine Training, LLC) and his handler Eric Koenig of the Kingsland Police Department in Georgia nabbed another local drug dealer. The case began with a traffic stop for failure to give a signal. The driver was excessively nervous and upon request would not give consent to a search of their vehicle. Robinho was deployed and sniffed the vehicle intently. He alerted by sticking his head up and into the driver side wheel well compartment near the tire and then he came to a sit. The behavior from the trusty labrador was definitely BAD NEWS for the driver of the car.

68 pounds of marijuana located by K-9 Robinho of Kingsland, GA Police

This canine alert led to the immediate opening of the trunk where 68 pounds of marijuana was found bundled with numerous layers of plastic and fabric softener sheets. None of the officers could smell any odor from the marijuana even with their faces literally stuffed inside the trunk. This just to demonstrate how well the driver had concealed the odor of the drugs and how acute Robinho’s nose is at finding odor.

Congratulations to Eric and Robinho for a job well done. Keep up the good work!

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We often recieve calls from potential clients wondering where and which breed of dog they should choose for their home. Here is a list of questions you should ask yourself before purchasing/adopting a dog:

1. Do I need a puppy or an adult dog for my home?

Many people choose a puppy, because they are so adorable, only to find that they don’t have the time that is required as they first thought. The crying, the chewing, the potty training can all be a huge responsibilty to train dogs through! Often, people like the satisfcation of adopting an adult dog since more often these phases have already come and gone. So make sure you know what you and your family can commit to.

2. Do I have time for socialization?

Many people don’t understand the importance of socialization with dogs of all shapes, sizes, and ages. Obviously, puppies need the most socialization during all those stages of development. People often forgot that adult dogs and companion dogs (small house dogs) need just as much exposure to the outside world as puppies do. Meeting and greeting new dogs big and small, riding in the car, meeting new people young and old, strange noises, traffic, health exams, farm animals are all things dogs should be exposed to for a well-rounded companion.

3. Am I financially able to support my new dog?

Especially with strays, we want to save them all! However at times we may not be the best fit for the dog(s). Vet bills, flea medication, heartworm pills, food, toys, treats can add up fast so make sure you are able to provide financial aid to take care of your new companion. Also grooming can be a factor when totaling expenses for your new dog.

4. Which breed of dog or energy level of dog would best fit my lifestyle?

Often times dog owners get in over their head by choosing the wrong type of dog for their or their family’s lifestyle. If you are more a a laid back family that doesn’t participate in outside activities a small companion dog or mastiff type breed may be a good choice for you. That doesn’t mean that these dogs do not need stimulation and/or training, it just means they are a little lower maintenance.

We recently had a client call about purchasing a Doberman Puppy and was deciding between a working line breed or a show line breed (less energy). Given the background and lifestyle of this client (very active) and his dedication to training for the dog we recommended the working line puppy. Thor was brought us at 16 weeks old and we immediatley began working on his on and off leash obdience. Thor was a very strong puppy, very mouthy, and full of energy. So we incorporated both food and his tug, along with the remote training collar for his bootcamp dog training program and it worked out great. The owner was able to have control over the dog with little pressure and Thor was able to have fun during his training sessions!

Choosing the right dog breed and/or energy level for your lifestyle will save you more headache later on. Trying to make the wrong type of dogs fit into your lifestyle often ends in dumping them at the pound or worse euthansia, so make sure you get it right the first time.

5. Should I go ahead and get a litter mate for my new dog?

Many people go to choose a new dog and see their siblings and/or other dogs at the adoption center and usally on impulse go ahead and get two! It is very hard to resist this temptation, however, we generally do not recommend littermates. Pet owners are under the impression that the two dogs can keep each other entertained and out of trouble while they are away, and that’s not genrally the case. The dogs can get so comfortable with each other that they don’t understand how to socialization with people and or new dogs.

We recently had two labrador retrievers that were litter mates and were very unruly. They chewed up furniture together, got into trash together, had small aggression issues over possessions and were almost impossible to walk out in public. When the dogs arrived we noticed that they did not know how to meet and greet other dogs and really could care less about playing with them.

These are all huge factors when choosing your forever companion, so don’t hesitate to call a professional dog trainer for advice or consultation about which dog is right for you and your family!

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Cheyenne is a Border collie mix that the Iredell County Humane Society obtained in their program over 1 year ago, and had not been able to find her a forever home. Cheyenne was an adorable dog, but had no manners and a little snappy when meeting new dogs at times. Cheyenne’s foster mom said that she was a great dog, but at the adoption fair’s a Pet Smart, Cheyenne would jump all over the potential prospects and unfortunately, steer them away. We decided this energetic Border Collie mix would be a great candidate for our Second Chance Program.

We decided that our In-kennel Training would be the best option for Cheyenne since we diagnosed her “snappy” behavior as that she was simply not socialized properly by previous owners. When client dogs come up for in-kennel training we are able to socialize them with dogs of all shapes and sizes in a controlled environment, which we have found great results with. Cheyenne was taught to sit, down, come, stay, place, and of course we worked on those behavior issues in just a matter of weeks!

When it was time for Cheyenne to leave Highland Canine and find her forever home, we gave her foster mom a call and asked her if she would be willing to spend a little time with us and go over how she was trained. We have found that our rescue groups/fosters that continue working with our second chance dogs are able to place them much faster, with no real set backs to their training. So, we were very pleased to hear that Cheyanne’s foster mom would come up and learn to work with Cheyenne to maintain her training!

Cheyenne returned to her foster home and the very next Saturday was another adoption fair at Pet Smart. A very nice couple approached to take a closer look at Cheyenne the and the foster was able to brag about how Cheyenne had just finished her school learning basic obedience. The couple then asked if the foster could show her a little of what she knew, the foster said that Cheyenne performed beautifully, as if on cue, and that was the beginning of her journey to her forever home. Cheyenne is doing quite well now and we get updates and pictures of her new life periodically. It is really amazing to see a plan come together with so many chipping in and have a wonderful ending!

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As many of you may know, herding dog training is a fun and exciting way to work with your dog. Herding training can be done with a number of different dog breeds, including; Border Collies, Rough Collies, Australian Cattle dogs, German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois and many other breeds as well. We recently put together a short video of some herding that was taken during one of our lessons to give you an idea of what it’s all about.

Herding dog training builds a special relationship between dog and handler and also has many other benefits. Herding will help to build good communication and teaches the dog and handler to work well as a team to accomplish particular goals. Herding helps to build cinfidence in dogs as well as challenging them mentally. Herding dog training also challenges dogs physically; good herding dogs are true canine athletes.

Highland Canine Training offers herding dog classes and private lessons for those who would like to do herding work with their dogs, even if just for fun. Herding is a great way to spend quality time with your dog and is something you both will enjoy. We offer free evaluations to anyone wishing to do herding work with their dog. If you are interested in herding training or if you would like to schedule a free evaluation, please feel free to give us a call at 866.200.2208 or email us.

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Highland Canine Training offers intensive and highly educational schools for dog trainers. Our programs teach students innovative methods of training dogs and gives our students everything they need to start their own dog training business. We offer training courses for basic dog obedience, advanced dog obedience, a Canine Training and Behavior Modification Professionals Course to teach the student how to train dogs as well as rehabilitate problem behaviors. We also offer working dog programs for the Police Canine Trainer / Instructor, Search and Rescue Trainer, Protection Dog trainer as well as courses to teach narcotics, explosives and human remains detection.

Our schedule for 2010 is listed below:

January 4th, 2010
April 5th, 2010
July 5th, 2010
October 4th, 2010

We are also offering discounted pricing for all of our courses for the Winter semester beginning on January 4th, 2010. Offers are available to those who register before December 1 , 2009. You can fill out our Dog Trainer Course Application here. For more information on our programs or our discounted prices, email us at training@highlandcanine.com or call toll free at 866.200.2207.

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