Tracking or Trailing Dog – It is common for people to use tracking and trailing synonymously. This is a common misconception among people learning about tracking or trailing work. In actuality, they are two completely different methods and have two completely different uses. The reason we use both words to describe them here is in the event someone is looking for a SAR trailing dog, but accidently wrote SAR tracking dog. Tracking is a method used in many sports like Schutzhund or AKC competitions. This is a very slow and ineffective way for SAR groups to work. Here, the dog actually follows each footstep of the track layer. They are taught to keep their nose on the ground so they do not miss a footstep and can indicate on a scent article.

As for the Search and Rescue trailing dog this is the fastest and most effective way to trail a person when you know their last known location or have a scent article. Here, the dog is taught to follow the scent, not the track of the human it is following. It is taught scent discrimination so it does not pick up a new scent somewhere along the track and follow it instead. It is also taught to work through contamination along the trail like vehicles, other people, animals and other distractions. You will often see a dog with his nose held up, walking fast or running during a trail. It is the handlers job to ensure that the dog is working at all times and is on the right trail. This type of trailing is typically done on a 30 or 50 foot long line or leash so the handler can keep up with the dog. This dog is by far the most common and most often used Search and Rescue dog out there.

USAR (Urban Search and Rescue) or Disaster Dog – This dog is similar to a life insurance policy…you pay into it each month but hope that you don’t have to use it in the near future. What I mean by this is that the Urban Search and Rescue or Disaster Dog is used very rarely. We typically refer to them as disaster dogs because they are used after hurricanes, tsunamis, tornados, flash floods, acts of terrorism, etc. These dogs are taught to find living humans in difficult terrain, i.e. a pile of rubble, a collapsed building, rooftops, etc. This dog not only understands the fundamentals of finding the human, but also has the agility training to move himself to the location to show a final indication. These are the dogs that were used during the 911 tragedy, the Oklahoma City bombing and most recently in Haiti and Chile. These dogs are extremely valuable when it comes to disasters but a typical USAR dog may only work once in its life.

Wilderness or Air Scent Dog – These dogs have not only mastered on and off leash obedience, but have the ability to be set free in the woods to locate a human in large or rough terrain. These dogs are often times used to search larger areas where no last know location has been given. Once they pick up the scent they tend to zigzag back and forth creating a cone shape until they eventually find the source of the odor, the missing person. They are most commonly used to find a missing person in the wilderness or someone lost on terrain which would be hard for an individual to navigate through. These dogs are also highly skillful at agility so they can move quickly, smoothly and fluently while locating someone.

HRD or Cadaver Dog – Human Remains Detection or Cadaver dogs are usually brought in last during a Search and Rescue operation. These dogs are trained to find and indicate on a number of decomposing human odors. Whether it is decomposition fluid, hair, teeth, blood, tissue or nails the dog is always looking for someone who has died. HRD dogs are taught on and off leash obedience, plus directionals which help the handler control their search pattern from a distance and in rough terrain. The most popular HRD dog is a land cadaver dog. This dog is trained to indicate when it has found a body (or part) regardless if it is visible or not on the land. A water dog will indicate on odors of a body under water while riding in a boat or similar vessel.
Although it has been done, we do not suggest training a dog to find live humans and cadavers. It has been seen throughout history that when presented with a situation where it is presented with both live people and cadavers it has been extremely easy for them to get confused and indicate on the wrong thing. For instance, during 911 dual trained cadaver/USAR were used to find living humans. They wanted to spend as much time trying to save the individuals still alive as possible. So when the dog indicated, they assumed the person was alive and spent a large amount of energy trying to save them, only to find out they had been dead for hours or days. So that is why we don’t suggest it.

It is easy to write an essay on each one of these categories of Search and Rescue dogs, but it is important to understand the fundamental differences between them. Knowing what each is will only help you decide which route you and your pup want to go when joining a SAR Chapter. Here at Highland Canine we pride ourselves in producing some of the finest SAR dogs in the industry. Call today to schedule an evaluation to see if your dog is capable of becoming a Search and Rescue dog or if you were looking to purchase a dog already trained.

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This seminar is a great opportunity for dog owners, veterinarians, rescue volunteers, petsitters, groomers and others to learn about canine communication, canine cognition as well as answers to some common myths and questions about dog behavior. The seminar will last for about 3 hours and will include a question and answer session with our training staff.

The seminar will include:
How Dogs Learn
Canine Body Language
Behavior Problems
How to be a Better Dog Owner
Bite Prevention
Working with Dogs and Children
…and much, much more!

This seminar is free of charge and is open to anyone who would like to attend. Space is limited and registration for the seminar is required. If you would like to attend the seminar, please email us at training@highlandcanine.com. Please include your name and phone number in your email. If you have questions about the seminar, feel free to call us at 704.728.9494.

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So, I am sure you are asking, “Where do I start?” You should start by looking at what you did and didn’t do with your pup last year, and what you can do to improve upon it. It’s imperative that you understand that your dog’s happiness directly correlates with the activities you do together. When is the last time you guys went on a walk together? Did you bring him to the park with your family at all? Invite him to a BBQ and let him run around with friends? Did you even have a nice catch with him in the house? If you did, ask yourself how often. If you didn’t…you have to ask yourself, why not?

Many times we are involved with dogs because the owner is not comfortable with the dog out in public. So they don’t bring him out in public. Often this will lead to destructive behavior inside the house, i.e. chewing on the furniture, counter surfing, chewing through walls and doors, non stop barking. It is common to see these behaviors purely because the dog is bored and makes games by himself to keep his mind stimulated.

If your dog is good in public with people and other dogs there is no reason not to get him out more often. This will decrease his energy, destructiveness and increase his behavior when he is home. If your dog is not good in public you need to address these issues. Does he bark or growl at strangers, or dogs? Has he bitten someone? Does he tend to pull on the leash and is hard to control when distracted? Do you have to repeat commands in order for him to pay attention to you? Does he jump on people? Is he easily startled or scared? Does he growl when he has a toy or food?

If you answered yes to any of the questions above you came to the right spot…because your dog needs your help. If these issues are not dealt with they could become serious, potentially dangerous for family members, neighbors, even strangers. Although these issues are common and can be fixed, you should consult with a professional dog trainer in order to make sure you don’t try to fix it and accidently make it worse.

We have many different training options, including group lessons, private lessons, in home training and in kennel training. We are committed to helping you and your dog succeed at this New Years Resolution so that you and your dog can live happier, healthier lives. Not to mention, we guarantee our training for the life of the dog. Contact us today to take the first step towards a new year both of you.

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Dog training obedience is the first step toward gaining structure and control back into your home and lifestyle. However not every dog is satisfied with 30 minutes of training a few times a week or most often I hear the old standby ” having the dog sit or down while I have my snack on the couch and throw them a piece or two! ” Some dogs need a little more interaction and so just need a job to do. The trainers at Highland Canine Training can offer you tips and suggestions for your lifestyle so that you can get more from your dog and your obedience training.

One alternative method of releasing in energy is what we call “Tracking for Fun” with your dog. Now, not every dog or pet owner is cut out for this exercise, we would have to test your dog out during our free evaluation to make sure that both you and the dog are up to speed! Tracking is a great we to get the whole family involved and make your puppy tired. We often times get the older kids in the family to run a short track in the wooded area or the park (some even take walkie talkie’s to make it even more fun) and then the rest of the family can run behind the dog while they are tracking. It’s great exercise for everyone!

Another alternative method is agility courses. This too will require a free evaluation from our trainers to make sure you and your dog are enjoying what you do. Some of our clients go to group classes or have private lessons for agility training or you can make your own agility equipment at home. This again is a fun hobby for the entire family. Some of our more creative clients come up with neat agility courses that they have made out of things lying around the yard or garage.

We often times see pet owners who have bought or ended up with extremely drivey working dog lines in their home, which can be a recipe for disaster if you’re not careful! Protection training is often a good outlet for those high energy dogs. Many people are under the asumption that dogs that do bitework are mean and cannot be socialized or controlled. That is not the case, if your dog has ambition you could simply conduct bitework sessions as a game or sport with very little civil agitation. Dogs can understand when the bite sleeve or suit is out…we get to play. This is a great work out for the dog as well as the handler and lets not forget the decoy. If you do not have access to the equipment we would be happy to provide you with private lessons for protection work.

Herding is another great way to provide your dog with both physical exercise as well as mental stimulation. Herding training is obviously not for every dog and owner, but is often a great way to burn off energy for pastoral breeds. Contrary to popular belief, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds and German Shepherds do not automatically know how to instinctively herd. These and many other dogs will have some natural herding instincts, but do not know how to herd. This activity is something that must be taught and can be learned by dogs both young and old. If you are interested in herding training feel free to call or email us to set up a free herding evaluation.

Tugging can also be a great game to play with your dog to exert mental and physical stimulation. This activity does not illicit aggressive behavior! A dog that is well-rounded and balanced will often find this game both challlenging and fun. The important thing to understand with playing tug is that you always control the game.

Utilizing a backpack during a walk or run can also be a great way of burning some excess energy. Physical exercise is not always enough and we would encourage mental stimulation along with any physical activity. Adding a backpack to your routine can sometimes be enough to tire out your dog.

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Many departments in the US are now utilizing scent line-ups as an investigative tool while many agencies in Europe have been using line-ups as evidence for years. In order for this method of investigation to be successful, there is definitely a foundation of training (both dogs and humans) that must take place. Dog teams should be able to clearly demonstrate a track record of accurate and effective recognition of target odor during scent line-ups in training before ever attempting to utilize this investigative tool during an actual case. I believe that this demonstration of accuracy should be recorded and properly documented over a number of months before the handler should ask the dog to perform in a real life environment.

Procedures should be established for scent line-ups in order to reduce the risk of contamination by the handler and others assisting in the investigation. In the video, you can clearly see the investigator handling the samples that are being used in the line-up. Handling these odor samples in this manner will undoubtedly contaminate them. Each dog handler that conducts scent line ups should have a documented method of performing them and should be able to demonstrate and articulate the procedures that are put in place to minimize contamination as much as possible. These line-ups should be set up similar to a scientific procedure rather than typical drug or explosives detection training.

Bloodhound

Another aspect of training and performing scent line-ups that should be considered is what should be expected of the dog in the event that they encounter the target odor. In a nutshell, the dog should demonstrate a clear and discernable alert. This indication should not be something that takes the handler fifteen or twenty minutes to explain to the layperson in order for them to understand. This indication should be clearly recognized and understood by anyone watching the line-up being performed (either live or on video).

You should also take into consideration that the target odor should not always be included in the samples presented to the dog while training and establishing procedures for line-ups. The dog should be allowed an “out” in the event that they sniff all of the samples and they determine that there is no match with the target or suspect odor. The dog should be rewarded and encouraged to be accurate, not to always find a match. This is important because there will not always be a match to your suspect sample given a particular line-up. This scenario should also be included in your training program so that the dog understands what is expected of him in the event that there is no “match”. You should also consider having some type of “negative indication” where the dog clearly demonstrates that there is no match to the sample that has been presented to him.

Consistent training and effective reinforcement is key in any type of dog training program in order for them to be productive and maintain accuracy. I believe that this is imperative when performing scent line-ups as evidence or as an investigative tool. By establishing and effective training program, doing your homework and putting some controls and procedures in place to limit contamination and the risk of a false indication, K-9 teams can be efficient and productive in performing scent line-ups to identify suspects in criminal cases.

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However, sometimes a situation unfolds right in front of your eyes before you have a chance to redirect it, and the next thing you know you have a ringside seat to a dog fight. A dog’s teeth are to be respected. They can shred skin and muscle in mere seconds. And if your dog is one of the dogs in the fight, your first instinct is to jump in and save him.

This is a great way to get yourself hurt as well. You are no match for two angry dogs and their teeth. If you pull your dog back while the other dog is still attacking, you are putting your dog at a huge disadvantage. So, it is a good idea to understand what to do in this situation before it ever happens, and with a little luck you will never need to use it.

3 Things to NEVER Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight
Here are three things that you should NEVER do to break up a dog fight.

Scream – Loud chaotic noise just elevates the energy in an already out of control situation.

Use Your Hands – Trying to stop two fighting dogs by putting yourself, or any part of you, in between them does not stop the fight. It just gets you hurt.

Only Call Off One Dog – There are two dogs fighting. Never pull your dog out of a fight if someone is not pulling the other dog out at the same time. You are just making your dog defenseless, and the other dog can have a free shot at him.

3 Things to ALWAYS Do when Breaking Up a Dog Fight

Now here three things that may HELP break up a dog fight.

Training – If your dog obeys your come, sit, stay command, you may be able to avoid the confrontation altogether. Also, if you can tell your dog to sit and stay during a fight, it means you only have to manage the aggressive behavior of one dog rather than two.

Startle – A loud, piercing noise, a blast of compressed air or a good dousing with water may redirect the dogs’ attention just long enough to pull them apart.

Separate – To separate fighting dogs one person needs to take each dog by the back legs and drag them backwards in a circle. Walking in a circle will put them off balance and they’ll have to think about staying on their feet, rather than their argument. Keep dragging and turning until the dog has calmed down, or you risk him turning and biting you. Get the two dogs far away from each other before releasing your hold and checking for damage.

When checking over your dog for bite wounds, they may not appear large on the outside, but what looks innocent on the outside can mask extensive internal muscle damage. Generally if your dog has any wounds a trip to the vet is prudent, and at the very least you will probably want to administer antibiotics to avoid the onset of infection. He may feel a lot better if he has some pain relief at the same time.

If you are feeling anxious about going for walks after the attack, take a big breath and relax, because your dog will sense that, and feel nervous himself. If your dog is fearful after the attack, use positive reinforcement to redirect his attention and encourage him to come out with you, and again interact with other dogs. Soon enough, the dog fight will be a dim memory, and going for a walk will once again be a treat for both of you.

www.dogfencediy.com

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Our schedule for 2010 is listed below:

January 4th, 2010
April 5th, 2010
July 5th, 2010
October 4th, 2010

We are also offering discounted pricing for all of our courses for the Winter semester beginning on January 4th, 2010. Offers are available to those who register before December 1 , 2009. You can fill out our Dog Trainer Course Application here. For more information on our programs or our discounted prices, email us at training@highlandcanine.com or call toll free at 866.200.2207.

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We have found that there are some groups out there who train search dogs the only way they know how because they have lack of funds, time, or simply following advice from someone else. We have seen what some groups claim to be certified dogs and/or handlers with no finished alert, no apparent rewards for the dog, and dogs with simply no drive at all. During the years that I have been conducting seminars and certifying Search and Rescue dogs, I have also seen a number of “search and rescue” dogs that were fear agressive, phobic of people, or were scared of vehicles, just ot name a few. The problem is those select groups who choose to train their own way, with little or no success, ruin things for those groups and individuals who work hard, attend classes, seminars, and receive updated information frequently to make sure handler and dog are up to par. I would like to add that if you are a volunteer in hopes of making a hero out of yourself and your dog…..please get out now! (ie. Sandra Anderson and Canine Eagle). Search and Rescue groups are about working as a team many times with people you don’t know very well. Making up excuses for why your dog was wrong or couldn’t pick up a scent (blaming others for your lack of training), sometimes you just have to say, we gave it a shot and did the best we could. There are many resources and certified trainers out there to assist search and rescue handlers and your dogs; you just have to take a look around.

If you are thinking about or already working a SAR, USAR, Wilderness, or Cadaver canine, ask yourself “Can I testify to the work and training of me and my dog?” Yes, it could happen, especially working cadaver dogs, you could find yourself right in the middle of a murder or missing person’s investigation. Remember, training records are the key to understanding where you are with your dog and where you need to go next as far as training. There’s an old saying that was taught to me in my years in law enforcement: “If you did not write it down, it did not happen!”

When training or working with Search and Rescue Dogs, try to be open minded, one trainer or instructor is not the “gospel” and you’ll be surprised about what you can learn (or learn not to do ) by listening to different training methods and theories.

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Ray is a police canine trainer and instructor in the Metro Atlanta area where he also serves as a full time police canine handler. Ray will utilize his experience with working dogs as well as pet dogs to help owners better understand and work with their dogs.

The Metro Atlanta location will offer Group Classes, Private Lessons and In-Home Training in basic and advance obedience and behavior modification. He will also provide in-service training for police dogs, protection and Search and Rescue.

To learn more about Ray and our Metro Atlanta programs visit the website www.dogtrainingatlantaga.com or email Ray at rfigueroa@highlandcanine.com.

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